Namibia Hobatere

22nd September Hobatere/ Kaokoland

The next day, after a hearty breakfast we were finally on our way to Etosha. As recommended we were going to stay at a lodge in the far west of the park, drive though Etosha West, stay at another lodge in the centre where the pan starts, then drive through Etosha East to end at a lodge in the far east. This gave us the best opportunities to see all the different habitats and therefore wildlife of the park; an excellent recommendation as it turned out as we saw almost everything we wanted over the week in a variety of ecosystems.

So, back through Khorixas, where we filled up with petrol and food, then turn left onto C35, not a bad road at all, to Fransfontein and Karamjab, all the while in the same sandy/ rocky outcrop terrain. Then through some taller ridges and into more savannah, grass-filled areas before we saw Etosha’s Galton Gate on our right. Just 2km further, on the left, was the gate to Hobatere Lodge with a sign warning of lions and not to exit the car! The track to the lodge rapidly began a red sandy dust trap, with several dry riverbed crossings. It wasn’t long before we spotted some giraffe browsing next to the road.

Soon after we encountered a 2-wheel drive police car (presumably not on duty) stranded in a riverbed sand. He was walking around, foolishly we thought. We said we’d tell the lodge as we weren’t keen to getting out ourselves, and when we saw their patrol car we let them know. It was a beautiful lodge, with no other guests, set in its own concession. Their own waterhole, on the edge of the property, with a raised hide, meant we could sit and watch a huge variety of wildlife come to drink, including zebra, impala, guinea fowl, oryx, and many other antelopes and birds. Steve especially liked the beautiful iridescent starlings. Our chalet was loved, with a veranda open to the bush behind, from which we observed a never-ending trail of animals. Not so sure about the enormous spiders, though…. A couple of bushes outside attracted the enormous Spider and Yellow-legged wasps. The Spider-wasps were enormous, noisy and shiny.

The unique location of Hobatere, the getaway into Western Etosha National Park, allows an exclusive wildlife experience. Hobatere is a conservancy lodge which benefits the local community and conservation.

Look forward to a warm welcome, personalised service, excellent food, inviting chalets with comfortable beds in the middle of the wild. Accommodation is in chalets shaded by thatched roofs keeping the well-appointed chalets cool. All the rooms have en-suite bathrooms with a shower, toilet and washbasin complimented with guest amenities, along with a writing desk, private deck, mosquito nets and a small coffee and tea station, making this a second home in the wild. There is a swimming pool next to the main area with sun lounges for relaxing under the Namibian sun. A spacious restaurant is complimented by a lounge, bar area and an outside veranda from where the game at the waterhole can be watched. A small curio shop is also available. Hobatere offers game drives in open vehicles with knowledgeable rangers. https://wetu.com/iBrochure/en/Information/26668_8030_10417/hobatere_lodge/Activities http://hobatere-lodge.com Our evening game drive explores the concession area, to learn about plant and bird life, admire amazing termite mounds among big mopane trees, spot a herd of elephants or our local pride of lions. Ask about the Namibian Lion Trust and their involvement with the Hobatere lions.

Common Waxbills (Estrilda astrild) are usually found in reeds, rushes and grasses near water. They are also attracted to ephemeral rivers of the Namib Desert, where seeding grasses provide food and cover. Scattered and isolated populations live all over the country except the southern Namib Desert. They forage whilst clinging upside down in trees and on the ground for flowers and seeds of grasses and sedges as well as insects. They are pale grey-brown forehead to nape, with a bright-red to crimson eye stripe extending from the lores above and below the eye. Both sexes build pear-shaped green grass nest, complete with a tubular entrance.

Pale-Winged Starlings (Onychognathus nabouroup) are dependent on rocky hills or valleys for breeding and roosting. Flocks or small parties are the norm, as is drinking and bathing regularly. A large starling with a black bill and legs and a predominately glossy black plumage with white wing patches. Onychognathus is a combination of Greek words which refer to the bill, which resembles a nail or claw. It id distributed from the north to drier western regions, Fish River Canyon/ Orange River, Etosha, Skeleton Coast, Erongo Mountains and central plateau. Both male and females provide sticks and dry grass stems to build a nest.
Cape Glossy Starlings (Lamprotornis nitens) gather in small groups and at times larger flocks to roost or feed in a wide variety of habitats. This includes wooded savannah, forest edges, plantations, parks, gardens and riverine bush. A glossy blue head with blue-green upperparts, wings and tail. Nitens is a Latin word for 'shining' or ‘bright'. It is widespread and common throughout Namibia except in areas that lack surface water. This starling hops and runs along the ground in search of fruit and insects (termites, wasps, beetles, millipedes, caterpillars, weevils and grasshoppers), often near or on the backs of impalas, rhinoceros, sable antelope and gemsbok. Both male and female build a nest in the natural cavity of a tree, or an old woodpecker hole.
Greater Blue-Eared Starlings (Lamprotornis chalybaeus) spend a fair amount of time hopping around the ground in open savannah woodland and forest savannah. Up to 400 birds can be observed roosting in reedbeds and acacia trees in non-breeding season. They live in the north/ north-east of Namibia only including Etosha. It forages for fruits and berries such as figs and the nectar of sisal plants, takes insects like grasshoppers and beetles, frogs, baby mice and small lizards. This bird has a glossy blue-green forehead to rump including the wings. Both male and female of the species line an old barbet or woodpecker nest with dry grass and feathers.

Black Faced Impala (Aepyceros melampus petersi) is a sub-species of the common impala originally from the north west of Namibia, introduced to Etosha in the 1970's. They are darker than other impala. They tend to keep to dense riverine vegetation during the day, lying in the thickets to escape the heat. Modest vegetation zones are also attractive to them. They are gregarious and occur in small herds of 3-15 and larger herds in lambing season. Solitary males team up with harems of females and their offspring. They are confined to the south-west part of Etosha and Kamanjab district. Black-faced impala are are browsers and grazers, consuming flowers, leaves, shoots and fruit, bark and leaves of shrubs such as the small sour plum. They often compete for food with their arch enemy - the goat. They are dull brown with a distinct purplish-black sheen. In adults the side of the face and back of the ears are reddish-brown, as well as the dark coloured face blaze on top of their muzzles that extends from the nostrils to the top of the head. They are seasonal breeders Dec/Jan and single baby is produced.

Namaqua Doves (Oena capensis) can be found in almost every habitat including dry woodlands, arid and semi-arid shrublands, riverine woodlands in desert regions, and even gardens. They are usually alone or in pairs, congregating at water holes to drink either side of mid-day. A small dove with a long, graduated, pointed tail. Oena is Greek for 'a wild pigeon’. Common throughout Namibia except the southern Namib Desert, they eat only tiny seeds of grass, sedge and weeds.

Lion (Panthera leo). A species whose range has decreased greatly as many are shot, trapped or poisoned, or die when their prey ratios are reduced by drought or disease. Lions are great wanderers and spend much of their time hunting, patrolling territories, playing and sleeping. They live in prides of up to 30, comprising 4-12 related females, and the lionesses remain in the pride for life. Males form coalitions, defending their female from rival males. Lions are territorial animals and can defend a territory of up to 400km². At 2/3 years old, young males leave the pride and become nomadic for around two years and at 5, settle down with their own pride. Females do the majority of the hunting, as a team. Apart from roaring, lions communicate by scent-marking their surroundings and by their facial expressions and body postures. Lions show aggression by showing their impressive canine teeth, flattening their ears and displaying the dark patch behind the ears, their tails twitching in irritation. They are only in the north of Namibia, and between 250- 750 lions live in Etosha with smaller populations in Kaokoland and Damara, although they have recently returned to the Skeleton Coast Park. Lions feed on a wide range of mammals from mice to buffalo, birds up to the size of ostrich as well as reptiles and even insects. They can attack and kill wildebeest, gemsbok and zebras and they are also known on occasion to tackle young elephants and hippo. The lions coat is ideal for hiding; brownish yellow, the same colour as dead grass, a camouflage extra. Their underparts are whitish with a general tawny to sandy tinge. Rosettes and spots are characteristic of young animals and females often retain these on their underparts. Only males have the long tawny mane on the sides of the face and top of the head. Lions are non-seasonal breeders, yet females of a pride often synchronise births. After birth, cubs are hidden for six weeks after which mothers bring them to the pride's crèche. The young remain dependent on the pride for up to 3 years. The lion is the largest African carnivore; males weighs 160-180kg, up to 230kg and are 3m long nose to tail and 1.1m tall.

Southern-Yellow-Billed-Hornbill (Tockus leucomelas). A dry, open acacia savannah and stands of low bushveld are the most common habitats for this bird, usually seen in pairs or small family groups, running around on the ground, hopping into low bushes and small trees with a raised tail. Roosting against tree trunks, early morning basking, preening and later afternoon dust-bathing are features of this hornbill. It lives in north and central Namibia inc Etosha, Windhoek, Erongo Mountains, Brandberg, Spitzkoppe. Its main diet is red-billed quelea nestlings, rodents, snakes, birds' eggs, ants/ termites, chameleons, crickets, beetles, centipedes and scorpions. Predominately white and black plumage (leacomelas is white and black in Latin) with a grey head and neck and characteristic yellow bill. it is often confused with red-billed and Damara hornbill.
Namaqua Sandgrouse (Pterocles namaqua) were as the name suggests, first discovered in Namaqualand. Typical habitats include shrubland with or without grass, areas of sandy savannah with thick vegetation and gravel desert and sandy semi-desert. It is common in Namibia inc Etosha, Skeleton Coast, Orange River, Fish River Canyon.

At 4 we joined our driver for a personal sundowner. He took us past the small private airfield and into the concession. We saw a number of interesting birds in the trees, including hornbills, guinea fowl, sandgrouse and other. Several herds of zebra and impala passed us as he headed on to what our guide called Termite Plain. The name says it all. He suddenly saw a lioness (not sure how as it took us ages to spot her), and we headed down to see her and her two cubs. The cubs, a male and female, were about 4 months old, still suckling, but she had a half-eaten zebra kill stashed behind the tree they were shading in. After quite a while observing we headed out again. We travelled through a more hilly area, with a variety of trees he told us about, before driving along the dry river for a few kms. He’d hoped to find a small elephant herd, but we didn’t see them before it was dusk. We began to head back to a good vantage point at which to eat our snacks, drink some drink and watch the sunset. We got back in time for a lovely vegetarian evening meal outdoors by the waterhole, and after watched the evening wildlife including a lot of active fireflies and a large owl.